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foundation = [[Los Angeles, California|Los Angeles]], [[California]]|
foundation = [[Los Angeles, California|Los Angeles]], [[California]]|
location = [[Los Angeles, California|Los Angeles]], [[California]]|
location = [[Los Angeles, California|Los Angeles]], [[California]]|
key_people = [[Dov Charney]], Founder & CEO|
key_people = [[Dov Charney]], CEO<br />Marty Bailey, COO<br />Ken Cieply, CFO<br />Nicolle Gabbay, Head of Retail Operations<br /> Patricia Honda, Customer Service Manager|
industry = [[Garments|Garments manufacturer]]|
industry = [[Garments|Garments manufacturer]]|
products = [[Clothing]]|
products = [[Clothing]]|
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== Allegations of union busting in 2003==
== Allegations of union busting in 2003==


In 2003, UNITE launched a union drive at the factory.<ref> Apparel News - Influential in 2002 - December 2002</ref><ref name=ITT>{{cite web |url=http://www.inthesetimes.com/article/2270/ |title=Wolf in Sheeps Clothing |publisher=In These Times |author=Ari Paul |date=[[2005-08-04]] |accessdate=2007-12-19}}</ref>The drive came a week after Levi's, which had been UNITE-unionized, announced it was closing its last plants in North America in September 2003.<ref>Commondreams.org - Levi's to close Last U.S. Plant - September 2003[http://www.commondreams.org/headlines03/0926-03.htm></ref>The union claimed that American Apparel interfered with the drive. American Apparel denied the claims. The company was reported to the National Labor Relations Board for violations of Federal labor laws, and a no fault settlement was eventually reached with the NLRB.<ref name=ITT>{{cite web |url=http://www.inthesetimes.com/article/2270/ |title=Wolf in Sheeps Clothing |publisher=In These Times |author=Ari Paul |date=[[2005-08-04]] |accessdate=2007-12-19}}</ref><ref>Stephen Wishart. ''Behindthelabel.org'' (January 2005) [http://web.archive.org/web/20070407064236/http://www.behindthelabel.org/infocus.asp?id=84 The Truth Behind American Apparel: Sweatshop free or Union buster?]</ref>American Apparel posted in their production facility a document agreeing not to conduct any anti-union activities.<ref name=ITT/>
In 2003, UNITE launched a union drive at the factory.<ref> Apparel News - Influential in 2002 - December 2002</ref><ref name=ITT>{{cite web |url=http://www.inthesetimes.com/article/2270/ |title=Wolf in Sheeps Clothing |publisher=In These Times |author=Ari Paul |date=[[2005-08-04]] |accessdate=2007-12-19}}</ref>The drive came a week after Levi's, which had been UNITE-unionized, announced it was closing its last plants in North America in September 2003.<ref>Commondreams.org - Levi's to close Last U.S. Plant - September 2003[http://www.commondreams.org/headlines03/0926-03.htm></ref>The union claimed that American Apparel interfered with the drive. American Apparel denied the claims. The company was reported to the National Labor Relations Board for violations of Federal labor laws, and a no fault settlement was eventually reached with the NLRB.<ref name=ITT><ref>Stephen Wishart. ''Behindthelabel.org'' (January 2005) [http://web.archive.org/web/20070407064236/http://www.behindthelabel.org/infocus.asp?id=84 The Truth Behind American Apparel: Sweatshop free or Union buster?]</ref>American Apparel posted in their production facility a document agreeing not to conduct any anti-union activities.<ref name=ITT/>

In a 2007 filing with the U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission, American Apparel characterized its relations with its employees as "excellent. <ref> U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission - 2007[http://google.brand.edgar-online.com/PeopleFilingResults.aspx?PersonID=4102130></ref> In the last five years there have been no reports of American Apparel employees seeking to unionize since the September 2003 incident.


== Unconventional corporate culture ==
== Unconventional corporate culture ==
The company has been criticized for sexually charged advertising and unconventional corporate culture.<ref>Newsweek - Jennifer Ordoñez - June 26, 2006[http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/13390518/site/newsweek/ "California Hustlin'"]</ref> In 2005, four female employees filed [[sexual harassment]] lawsuits against American Apparel. <ref name="Inc">Josh Dean. ''[[Inc. Magazine|Inc.]]'' (September 2005). [http://www.inc.com/magazine/20050901/american-apparel.html Dov Charney, Like It or Not].</ref> Three of the four employee lawsuits were either dropped or settled, with the fourth still pending.<ref> Los Angeles Times - Fashion Mogul in Spotlight - January 17, 2008[http://www.latimes.com/news/local/la-me-charney17jan17,0,1233679.story]</ref>.Charney claimed to have slept with employees, and reportedly [[masturbation|masturbated]] numerous times and had [[oral sex]] performed on him by an employee during a series of interviews with a writer for the magazine ''[[Jane (magazine)|Jane]]''.<ref>Claudine Ko, "Meet Your New Boss" ''[[Jane (magazine)|JANE]]'' (June-July 2004), 136-141.</ref> American Apparel has also been accused of focusing on personal style and outward appearance in its hiring practices for retail positions.<ref name=huff>{{cite journal
The company has been criticized for sexually charged advertising and unconventional corporate culture.<ref>Newsweek - Jennifer Ordoñez - June 26, 2006[http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/13390518/site/newsweek/ "California Hustlin'"]</ref> In 2005, four female employees filed [[sexual harassment]] lawsuits against American Apparel. <ref name="Inc">Josh Dean. ''[[Inc. Magazine|Inc.]]'' (September 2005). [http://www.inc.com/magazine/20050901/american-apparel.html Dov Charney, Like It or Not].</ref> Three of the four employee lawsuits were either dropped or settled, with the fourth still pending.<ref> Los Angeles Times - Fashion Mogul in Spotlight - January 17, 2008[http://www.latimes.com/news/local/la-me-charney17jan17,0,1233679.story]</ref>. American Apparel has also been accused of focusing on personal style and outward appearance in its hiring practices for retail positions.<ref name=huff>{{cite journal
|author=Jamie Huff
|author=Jamie Huff
|title=Sweatshop Free but Still Exploitative:Sexual Harassment at American Apparel|url=http://www.cofc.edu/chrestomathy/vol5/huff.pdf
|title=Sweatshop Free but Still Exploitative:Sexual Harassment at American Apparel|url=http://www.cofc.edu/chrestomathy/vol5/huff.pdf
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==Support for immigration reform==
==Support for immigration reform==


As early as 2001, American Apparel has been a vocal advocate for reform of U.S. immigration laws. On May 1, 2002 American Apparel shut down its factory to allow the company's workers, many of whom are immigrants, to participate in a pro-immigration rally in downtown Los Angeles. Dov Charney, a Canadian immigrant, also marched alongside the workers.<ref> May 1,March for Workers Rights - 05_2002</ref> In addition to participating in this and a variety of subsequent immigration protests, the company has run a series of "Legalize LA" ads and billboards.<ref>The May Day Marches - Claire Hoffman - The Los Angeles Times - 2006-05-02 "The iconoclastic chief executive of American Apparel Inc. not only gave 3,300 of his employees the day off, but he also supplied them with T-shirts emblazoned with a pro-immigration message," "By noon, Charney had left the factory and joined his workers and their families, who had arranged to march together on Broadway," "American Apparel, with about 130 stores around the world, has a history of supporting May Day marches: In past years, employees were given half the day off and bused to protests.</ref> This notable campaign, calling for immigration-reform, attracted a fair amount of media attention and was chronicled in [[The New York Times]] in January 2008.<ref>Louise Story - The New York Times - January 18, 2008[http://www.nytimes.com/2008/01/18/business/media/18adco.html?_r=2&ref=business&oref=slogin&oref=slogin]</ref> Charney has likened his company's position to the decision of Levi Strauss to desegregate their factories during the civil rights movement, saying "Why did Levi's do it? Probably because it was the right thing to do at the time. And they became known as a company that represented what America was all about. What Levi's was to San Francisco, we aspire to be to Los Angeles."<ref>[http://www.wwd.com/issue/article/121166?page=0 Memo Pad: Doing the Right Thing] Women's Wear Daily, 12/28/2007</ref>
As early as 2001, American Apparel has been a vocal advocate for reform of U.S. immigration laws. On May 1, 2002 American Apparel shut down its factory to allow the company's workers, many of whom are immigrants, to participate in a pro-immigration rally in downtown Los Angeles. Dov Charney, a Canadian immigrant, also marched alongside the workers.<ref> May 1,March for Workers Rights - 05_2002</ref> In addition to participating in this and a variety of subsequent immigration protests, the company has run a series of "Legalize LA" ads and billboards.<ref>The May Day Marches - Claire Hoffman - The Los Angeles Times - 2006-05-02 "The iconoclastic chief executive of American Apparel Inc. not only gave 3,300 of his employees the day off, but he also supplied them with T-shirts emblazoned with a pro-immigration message," "By noon, Charney had left the factory and joined his workers and their families, who had arranged to march together on Broadway," "American Apparel, with about 130 stores around the world, has a history of supporting May Day marches: In past years, employees were given half the day off and bused to protests.</ref> This notable campaign, calling for immigration-reform, attracted a fair amount of media attention and was chronicled in [[The New York Times]] in January 2008.<ref>Louise Story - The New York Times - January 18, 2008[http://www.nytimes.com/2008/01/18/business/media/18adco.html?_r=2&ref=business&oref=slogin&oref=slogin]</ref> Charney has likened his company's position to the decision of Levi Strauss to desegregate their factories during the civil rights movement, saying "Why did Levi's do it? Probably because it was the right thing to do at the time. And they became known as a company that represented what America was all about. What Levi's was to San Francisco, we aspire to be to Los Angeles."<ref>[http://www.wwd.com/issue/article/121166?page=0 Memo Pad: Doing the Right Thing] Women's Wear Daily, 12/28/2007</ref>


== Environmental policies ==
== Environmental policies ==

Revision as of 17:03, 17 March 2008

American Apparel, Inc.
Company typePublic (AMEXAPP)
IndustryGarments manufacturer
FoundedLos Angeles, California
HeadquartersLos Angeles, California
Key people
Dov Charney, Founder & CEO
ProductsClothing
RevenueIncrease US$284 million (2006)
Number of employees
6700 (2007)
Websitewww.americanapparel.net

American Apparel (AMEXAPP) is the largest clothing manufacturer in the United States, and is noted for advocating and utilizing non-"sweatshop" labor policies, which the company has dubbed "sweatshop free."[1] American Apparel is a vertically-integrated clothing manufacturer, wholesaler, and retailer that also performs its own design, advertising, and marketing. It is best-known for making basic cotton knitwear such as t-shirts and underwear, but in recent years has expanded to include tank tops, dresses, pants, denim and accessories for men, women, children, babies and dogs.

Production

Main factory and headquarters in Los Angeles

Manufacturing is based in an 800,000 square foot factory in downtown Los Angeles, California. By integrating all aspects of production and avoiding outsourcing, the company achieves a fast turn-around time from design concept to finished product.[2] The company also operates its own fabric dye house, garment dye house, and knitting facility, all based in Los Angeles.[3] The company is unusual in that it manufactures apparel in the United States, when most apparel production today takes place in Central America, the Caribbean, and in Asia.

Trendsetting brand

American Apparel has earned praise for its provocative and sometimes controversial advertising campaign, which in a short period of time has helped cultivate a powerful and trendsetting brand. American Apparel has a long history of advertising in Vice Magazine.[4] In 2005 the company was named "Marketer of the Year" at the first-ever "LA Fashion Awards" (timed to coincide with Los Angeles Fashion Week).[5]. That year Advertising Age described the campaign as "hot" and praised it for avoiding celebrity.[6].

Women’s Wear Daily published a survey in April 2007 from Outlaw Consulting, a creative research firm tracking the habits of 21-to 27-year olds, which ranked American Apparel as the 8th most trusted brand, ahead of such clothing brands as H&M and Levi’s.[7]

In January 2008 the Intelligence Group, a leading market research and trend consulting firm, listed American Apparel as their number two Top Trendsetting Brand in their Cassandra Report, behind only Nike.[8]. In February of the same year, Brand Keys named American Apparel as the number two retail apparel brand, behind Victoria’s Secret and tied with H&M. It was American Apparel’s first appearance on Brand Keys’ annual Loyalty Engagement Index.[9].

Rapid retail expansion

Shopper at a Los Angeles store

As of 2007 the company is in the process of rapid retail growth, opening stores in the United States, Israel, Japan, Korea, Netherlands, Switzerland, Germany, Canada, France, Sweden, Mexico and the United Kingdom. Other planned countries to open stores in is Australia, Belgium, Italy, and Spain. [4] It was ranked 308th in Inc. Magazine's 2005 list of the 500 fastest growing companies in the country, with a 440% three-year growth and revenues in 2005 of over US$ 211 million.[10]

In late 2006 American Apparel announced a reverse merger with Endeavor Acquisition Corp., a special purpose acquisition company founded in July 2005.[11][12] The merger closed in December 2007, at which point American Apparel became a publicly traded company.[13]

Progressive labor practices

As of 2007 the company employs more than 6,700 people and operates over 175 retail locations in 13 countries.[14] The company pays its manufacturing employees an average of US$12 per hour[1] Employees also receive benefits such as paid time off, healthcare, company-subsidized lunches, bus passes, free ESL classes, on-site masseurs, free bicycles and on-site bike mechanics, free parking, and proper lighting and ventilation.[15]. Management style promotes accessibility of upper executives, including the CEO, to all employees.[2]

Allegations of union busting in 2003

In 2003, UNITE launched a union drive at the factory.[16][17]The drive came a week after Levi's, which had been UNITE-unionized, announced it was closing its last plants in North America in September 2003.[18] The union claimed that American Apparel interfered with the drive. American Apparel denied the claims. On October 3rd, 2003 an anti-union demonstration took place put on by the workers.Cite error: A <ref> tag is missing the closing </ref> (see the help page). The company was reported to the National Labor Relations Board for violations of Federal labor laws, and a no fault settlement was eventually reached with the NLRB on January 30, 2004.Cite error: A <ref> tag is missing the closing </ref> (see the help page).American Apparel posted in their production facility a document agreeing not to conduct any anti-union activities and on May 10, 2004 the case was dismissed.[17]

In a 2007 filing with the U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission, American Apparel characterized its relations with its employees as "excellent. [19] In the last five years there have been no reports of American Apparel employees seeking to unionize since the September 2003 incident.

Unconventional corporate culture

The company has been criticized for sexually charged advertising and unconventional corporate culture.[20] In 2005, four female employees filed sexual harassment lawsuits against American Apparel. [21] Three of the four employee lawsuits were either dropped or settled, with the fourth still pending.[22]. American Apparel has also been accused of focusing on personal style and outward appearance in its hiring practices for retail positions.[23]

Support for immigration reform

As early as 2001, American Apparel has been a vocal advocate for reform of U.S. immigration laws.[24] On May 1, 2002 American Apparel shut down its factory to allow the company's workers, many of whom are immigrants, to participate in a pro-immigration rally in downtown Los Angeles. Dov Charney, a Canadian immigrant, also marched alongside the workers.[25] In addition to participating in this and a variety of subsequent immigration protests, the company has run a series of "Legalize LA" ads and billboards.[26] This notable campaign, calling for immigration-reform, attracted a fair amount of media attention and was chronicled in The New York Times in January 2008.[27] Charney has likened his company's position to the decision of Levi Strauss to desegregate their factories during the civil rights movement, saying "Why did Levi's do it? Probably because it was the right thing to do at the time. And they became known as a company that represented what America was all about. What Levi's was to San Francisco, we aspire to be to Los Angeles."[28]

Environmental policies

The company promotes environmentally friendly practices.[29] As of 2007 the company planned to increase its use of organic cotton within the next four years from over 20% to 80%. The company also recycles its fabric scraps. [30] It installed a 146 kilowatt solar electric system on its factory roof, designed to reduce power costs by at least 20%.[31]

References

  1. ^ a b New York Post - T-Shirts, As Far As the Eye Can See - Maxine Shen - March 24, 2004
  2. ^ a b "Segment of Modern Marvels: Cotton". The History Channel via AmericanApparel.net. Retrieved 2007-11-25.
  3. ^ True colors: some dyeing operations thrive, others fail - Los Angeles Business Journal - October 10, 2005[1]
  4. ^ a b Jamie Wolf (2006-04-23). "And You Thought Abercrombie & Fitch Was Pushing It?". New York Times Magazine. Retrieved 2007-11-25. {{cite web}}: Check date values in: |date= (help)
  5. ^ Grace Cerrone - lasplash.com - LA Fashion Awards - 2005 [2]
  6. ^ Simon Dumenco - AdAge - Media Guy Slips Into a Coma - August 29, 2005[3]
  7. ^ Kevin Ransom (2007-04-20). "Reign Of The Plain: Survey Finds Gen Ys Prefer Brand Simple". MediaPost. {{cite web}}: Check date values in: |date= (help)
  8. ^ "Cassandra Report" (PDF). Intelligence Group. 2008-01. {{cite web}}: Check date values in: |date= (help)
  9. ^ "Brand Keys Releases 11th Annual Ranking of Top Retail Brands". 2008-02. {{cite web}}: Check date values in: |date= (help); Unknown parameter |publication= ignored (help)
  10. ^ "Inc. No. 308:American Apparel". inc.com. 2006-08-01. Retrieved 2007-11-25. {{cite web}}: Check date values in: |date= (help)
  11. ^ "American Apparel's unusual flotation is typical of Dov Charney, its founder". The Economist via AmericanApparel.net. 2007-01-04. Retrieved 2007-11-25. {{cite web}}: Check date values in: |date= (help)
  12. ^ Andrew Ross Sorkin and Michael Barbaro (December 19, 2006). "Provocative Retail Chain Is Acquired". New York Times. Retrieved 2008-03-12.
  13. ^ American Stock Exchange Announces Closing of Endeavor Acquisition and American Apparel Merger[4]
  14. ^ Fact courtesy of American Apparel site.
  15. ^ Linda Baker (2004-02-11). "Made in the U.S. of A.?". Salon.com. Retrieved 2007-11-25. {{cite web}}: Check date values in: |date= (help)
  16. ^ Apparel News - Influential in 2002 - December 2002
  17. ^ a b Ari Paul (2005-08-04). "Wolf in Sheeps Clothing". In These Times. Retrieved 2007-12-19. {{cite web}}: Check date values in: |date= (help)
  18. ^ Commondreams.org - Levi's to close Last U.S. Plant - September 2003[http://www.commondreams.org/headlines03/0926-03.htm>
  19. ^ U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission - 2007[http://google.brand.edgar-online.com/PeopleFilingResults.aspx?PersonID=4102130>
  20. ^ Newsweek - Jennifer Ordoñez - June 26, 2006"California Hustlin'"
  21. ^ Josh Dean. Inc. (September 2005). Dov Charney, Like It or Not.
  22. ^ Los Angeles Times - Fashion Mogul in Spotlight - January 17, 2008[5]
  23. ^ Jamie Huff (2006). "Sweatshop Free but Still Exploitative:Sexual Harassment at American Apparel" (pdf). Chrestomathy: Annual Review of Undergraduate Research, School of Humanities and Social Sciences, School of Languages, Cultures, and World Affairs, College of Charleston. 5: 153–67. {{cite journal}}: Check date values in: |year= (help); line feed character in |journal= at position 80 (help)
  24. ^ American Apparel Ad[6]
  25. ^ May 1,March for Workers Rights - 05_2002
  26. ^ The May Day Marches - Claire Hoffman - The Los Angeles Times - 2006-05-02 "The iconoclastic chief executive of American Apparel Inc. not only gave 3,300 of his employees the day off, but he also supplied them with T-shirts emblazoned with a pro-immigration message," "By noon, Charney had left the factory and joined his workers and their families, who had arranged to march together on Broadway," "American Apparel, with about 130 stores around the world, has a history of supporting May Day marches: In past years, employees were given half the day off and bused to protests.
  27. ^ Louise Story - The New York Times - January 18, 2008[7]
  28. ^ Memo Pad: Doing the Right Thing Women's Wear Daily, 12/28/2007
  29. ^ PSFK - Piers Fawkes - October 4, 2007 "Why Build Sustainability Into Your Business?".
  30. ^ Josh Sims, "Organic Consumers Association" (July 6, 2006). Look Good, Save the Earth.
  31. ^ RenewableEnergyaccess.com (January 27, 2006).Downtown L.A. Clothing Company Goes Solar