Sitka, Alaska: Difference between revisions

City and Borough of Sitka
City and Borough
View toward Sitka from the Pacific Ocean. Sitka is the only town in Southeast Alaska that faces the Gulf of Alaska head-on.
Country	United States
State	Alaska
Colonized	1799
Incorporated[1]	November 5, 1913 (City of Sitka); September 24, 1963 (Greater Sitka Borough); December 2, 1971 (current City and Borough of Sitka, which combined the two)
Government
• Mayor	Cheryl Westover
Area
• Total	4,811.5 sq mi (12,461.8 km2)
• Land	2,874.0 sq mi (7,443.6 km2)
• Water	1,937.6 sq mi (5,018.2 km2)
Elevation	26 ft (8 m)
Population  (2011)[2]
• Total	8,952
• Density	3.13/sq mi (1.21/km2)
Time zone	UTC-9 (Alaska)
• Summer (DST)	UTC-8 (Alaska)
ZIP	99835
Area code	907
FIPS code	02-70540
GNIS feature ID	1414736
Website	www.cityofsitka.com

The City and Borough of Sitka, formerly New Archangel (Russian: Ново-Архангельск or Новоaрхангельск, t Novoarkhangelsk) under Russian rule, is a unified city-borough located on Baranof Island and the southern half of Chichagof Island in the Alexander Archipelago of the Pacific Ocean (part of the Alaska Panhandle), in the U.S. state of Alaska. With a population of 8,881 in 2010, Sitka is the fourth-largest city by population in Alaska. Urban Sitka (57°03′5.62″N 135°20′19.11″W / 57.0515611°N 135.3386417°W / 57.0515611; -135.3386417), the part that is usually thought of as the "city" of Sitka, is situated on the west side of Baranof Island.

The current name "Sitka" (derived from Sheet’ká, a contraction of the Tlingit Shee At'iká)^[3] means "People on the Outside of Baranof Island", whose Tlingit name is Sheet’-ká X'áat'l (here contracted to Shee).

Sitka's location was originally settled by the Tlingit people over 10,000 years ago. The Russians settled Old Sitka in 1799 under the name Redoubt Saint Michael (Russian: форт Архангела Михаила, t Fort Arkhangela Mikhaila). The governor of Russian America, Alexandr Baranov, arrived under the auspices of the Russian-American Company, a colonial trading company chartered by Tsar Paul I. In 1802, Tlingit warriors "clad in animal-headed helmets and armour" destroyed the original establishment, killing four hundred Russians and enslaving the rest, with only a few managing to escape.^[4] Baranov was forced to levy 10,000 rubles in ransom for the safe return of the surviving settlers.^[5]

Baranov returned to Sitka in 1804 with a large contingent of Russians and Aleuts with the Russian warship Neva. The ship bombarded the Tlingit fort but was not able to cause significant damage. The Russians then launched an attack on the fort and were repelled by Tlingit fighters and marksmen. However, the Tlingit gunpowder reserves had been lost before the Russian assault and the Tlingit were forced to leave the fort.^{[citation needed]}

Following their victory at the Battle of Sitka, the Russians established New Archangel as a permanent settlement named after Arkhangelsk, the largest city in the region where Baranov was born. The Tlingit re-established a fort on the Chatham Strait side of Peril Strait to enforce a trade embargo with the Russian establishment. In 1808, with Baranov still governor, Sitka was designated the capital of Russian America.^{[citation needed]}

The Cathedral of St. Michael was built in Sitka in 1848 and became the seat of the Russian Orthodox Bishop of Kamchatka, the Kurile and Aleutian Islands, and Alaska. The original church burnt to the ground in 1966, but was restored to its original appearance, with the deliberate exception of its clockface, which is black in photographs taken prior to 1966, but white in subsequent photos.^{[citation needed]}

"As out of the way as it appears now, the settlement was once known as the "Paris of the Pacific;" for the first half of the nineteenth century, it was the most important port on the West Coast."^[4]

Bishop Innocent lived in Sitka after 1840. He was known for his interest in education, and his house, parts of which served as a schoolhouse, the Russian Bishop's House has since been restored by the National Park Service. Swedes, Finns and other Lutherans worked for the Russian-American Company,^[6] and the Sitka Lutheran Church, built in 1840, was the first Protestant church on the Pacific Coast. After the transition to American control with the transfer of Alaska from Russia to the United States in 1867, the influence of other Protestant religions increased, and St. Peter's-By-The-Sea Episcopal Church was consecrated as "The Cathedral of Alaska" in 1900.^{[citation needed]}

There are twenty two buildings and sites in Sitka that appear in the National Register of Historic Places.^[7]

Sitka was the site of the ceremony in which the Russian flag was lowered and the United States flag raised after Alaska was purchased by the United States in 1867 after the sea otter pelt trade died out. The flag lowering and raising ceremony is re-enacted in Sitka every October 18, known locally as Alaska Day. Alaska's first newspaper following the Alaska Purchase, The Sitka Times, was published by Barney O. Ragan on September 19, 1868. Only four issues were published that year, as Ragan cited a lack of resources available at the time. The paper resumed publishing the following year as the Alaska Times. In 1870, it moved to Seattle, where the year following it was renamed the Seattle Times (not to be confused with the modern-day newspaper of the same name).^[8] Sitka served as the capital of the Alaska Territory until 1906, when the seat of government was relocated north to Juneau.

Sitka's Filipino community established itself in Sitka before 1929. It later became institutionalized as The Filipino Community of Sitka in 1981.^[9]

While gold mining and fish canning paved the way for the town's initial growth, it wasn't until World War II, when the Navy constructed an air base on Japonski Island (bringing 30,000 service personnel to the area), that Sitka finally came into its own. Today Sitka encompasses portions of Baranof Island and the smaller Japonski Island (across the Sitka Channel from the town), which is connected to Baranof Island by the O'Connell Bridge. The John O'Connell Bridge was the first cable-stayed bridge built in the Western Hemisphere. Japonski Island is home to Sitka Rocky Gutierrez Airport (IATA:SIT, ICAO:PASI), the Sitka branch campus of the University of Alaska Southeast, Mt. Edgecumbe High School — a state-run boarding school for rural Alaskans, Southeast Alaska Regional Health Consortium's Mt. Edgecumbe Hospital, a U.S. Coast Guard air station, and the port and facilities for the USCGC Maple.^{[citation needed]}

The home rule charter of the City and Borough of Sitka was adopted on 2 December 1971^[10] for the region of the Greater Sitka Borough, which was incorporated on 24 September 1963.^[11] On October 23, 1973, the city of Port Alexander was detached from the borough.^[12]

According to the United States Census Bureau, the borough is the second largest incorporated city by area in the U.S., with a total area of 4,811.5 square miles (12,461.7 km²), with 2,874.0 square miles (7,444 km²) being land and 1,937.6 square miles (5,018 km²) of it, or 40.27%, being water. Yakutat is the largest incorporated area in the U.S.

Sitka displaced Juneau, Alaska as the largest incorporated city in the United States upon the 2000 incorporation with 2,874 square miles (7,440 km²) of incorporated area. Juneau's incorporated area is 2,717 square miles (7,040 km²). Jacksonville, Florida, is the largest city in area in the contiguous 48 states at 758 square miles (1,960 km²).

• Sitka has an oceanic climate (Köppen Cfb) with moderate, but generally cool, temperatures and abundant precipitation.
• Average annual precipitation is 86.1 inches (2,190 mm); average seasonal snowfall is 30.9 inches (78 cm), falling on 233 and 19 days respectively.
• The mean annual temperature is 45.0 °F (7.2 °C), with monthly means ranging from 34.9 °F (1.6 °C) in January to 57.2 °F (14.0 °C) in August.
• Only 5.1 days per year see highs at or above 70 °F (21 °C); conversely, there are only 13 days with the high not exceeding freezing.^[13]
• Extremes range from 0 to 88 °F (−17.8 to 31.1 °C), on January 15, 1971, and July 30, 1976, respectively.^[13]

Mount Edgecumbe, a 3,200-foot (980 m)-tall dormant stratovolcano, is located on southern Kruzof Island. It can be seen on a clear day from Sitka.

• Hoonah-Angoon Census Area, Alaska - north, northeast
• Petersburg Census Area, Alaska - southeast

• Alaska Maritime National Wildlife Refuge (part of Gulf of Alaska unit)
  • Saint Lazaria Wilderness (formerly Saint Lazaria National Wildlife Refuge)
• Sitka National Historical Park
• Tongass National Forest (part)
  • South Baranof Wilderness
  • West Chichagof-Yakobi Wilderness (part)

In 2010, Sitka's two largest employers were the South East Alaska Regional Health Consortium (SEARHC), employing 482 people, and the Sitka School District, employing 250 people. However, there are more people employed in the seafood industry than in any other sector. An estimated 18% of Sitka's population earns at least a portion of their income from fishing and seafood harvesting and processing. Many Sitkans hunt and gather subsistence foods such as fish, deer, berries, seaweeds and mushrooms for personal use.^[14]

Within the total 2010 population of 8,881 residents, an estimated 7,161 were over 16 years of age. Of residents aged 16 and over, an estimated 4,692 were employed within the civilian labor force, 348 were unemployed (looking for work), 192 were employed in the armed forces (U.S. Coast Guard), and 1,929 were not in the labor force. The average unemployment rate between 2006 and 2010 was 6.9%. The median household income in 2010 inflation adjusted dollars was $62,024. An estimated 4.3% of all families / 7% of all residents had incomes below the poverty level "in the past twelve months"(2010).^[15]

Sitka's power is generated by dams at Blue Lake and Green Lake, with supplemental power provided by burning diesel when electric demand exceeds hydro capacity.

In 2010 a Texas company S2C Global Systems announced that it was moving forward with a plan to ship 2.9 billion US gallons (11,000,000 m³) to 9 billion US gallons (34,000,000 m³) of fresh lake water a year from Sitka (Blue Lake) to the west coast of India.^[16] The deal would represent the world's first regular, bulk exports of water via tanker.^[17] The water will be redistributed to places in India, southeast Asia and the Middle East. Sitka could earn up to $90 million a year in revenue.^[17]

Sitka is the 6th largest port by value of seafood harvest in the United States.^[14] International trade is relatively minor, with total exports and imports valued at $474,000 and $146,000, respectively, in 2005 by the American Association of Port Authorities.^[18] The port has the largest harbor system in Alaska with 1,347 permanent slips.

During Russian occupation, Sitka was a busy seaport on the west coast of North America,^[19] mentioned a number of times by Dana in his popular account of an 1834 sailing voyage Two Years Before the Mast. After transfer of Alaska to U.S. rule, the Pacific Coast Steamship Company began tourist cruises to Sitka in 1884. By 1890, Sitka was receiving 5000 tourist passengers a year.^[20]

As of the 2010 US Census, there were 8,881 people residing in the borough. The racial makeup of the borough, based on one race alone or in combination with one or more other races, was, 74.2% White, 1% Black or African American, 24.6% Native American, 8.1% Asian, 0.9% Pacific Islander, 1.8% from other races. An estimated 4.9% of the population were Hispanic or Latino of any race.

There were 3,545 households out of which 29.5% had children under the age of 18 living with them, 45.5% were married couples living together, 10.7% had a female householder with no husband present, 6.1% had a male householder with no wife present, and 37.6% were non-families. The average household size was 2.43 and the average family size was 3.01.^[22]

Sitka is not accessible directly by road. Vehicles are usually brought to Sitka via the Alaska Marine Highway ferry system.

Sitka's weather and location on the outer coast of the archipelago make transportation inherently difficult, expensive, and inconvenient.

By air, Sitka Rocky Gutierrez Airport offers service from jet and regional carrier Alaska Airlines and charter and bush community carrier Harris Aircraft Services. Delays in fall and winter due to Sitka's weather are frequent. The airport is located on Japonski Island, which is connected to Baranof Island by the O'Connell Bridge. The O'Connell Bridge, completed in 1972, was the first vehicular cable-stayed bridge in the United States. The Sitka Seaplane Base is seaplane landing area situated in the Sitka Channel, adjacent to the airport.

Slower ferry travel is provided through the Alaska Marine Highway System. The ferry terminal is located seven miles (11 km) north of downtown. Sitka's location on the outer coast of Alaskan Panhandle is removed from routes run through Chatham Strait. This, in addition to the tides of Peril Straits that allow mainline vessels through only at slack tide combine to result in no designated service by a vessel and minimal service overall. However, the AMHS is often the mode of transportation of choice when the schedule proves convenient because of its much cheaper cost.

Alaska Marine Lines, a barge and freight company, also has the ability to move cars to other communities connected to the mainland by road systems.

The Sitka Tribe of Alaska offers public bus transit in conjunction with the Alaska Department of Transportation.

In 2008, the League of American Bicyclists awarded Sitka the bronze level in bicycle friendliness making Sitka the first bicycle-friendly community in Alaska.

Sitka hosts one active post-secondary institution, the University of Alaska Southeast-Sitka Campus, located on Japonski Island in an old World War II hangar. Sheldon Jackson College, a small Presbyterian-affiliated private college suspended operations in June, 2007, after several years of financial stress.

The Sitka School District runs several schools in Sitka, including Sitka High School and Pacific High School, as well as the town's only middle school, Blatchley Middle School. They also run a home school assistance program through Terry's Learning Center.

Mt. Edgecumbe High School, a State of Alaska-run boarding high school for rural, primarily Native, students, is located on Japonski Island adjacent to University of Alaska Southeast.

One private school is available at Sitka Adventist School.

Kettleson Memorial Library is the public library for Sitka.

It receives about 100,000 guests annually and houses a collection of 75,000 books, audiobooks, music recordings, reference resources, videos (DVD and VHS) as well as an assortment of Alaskan and national periodicals. Its annual circulation is 133,000.

The library is well known by visitors for its view. The large windows in front of the reading area look south across Eastern Channel towards the Pyramids.

Until its closing, Sitka was also home to Stratton Library, the academic library of Sheldon Jackson College.

The Alaska State Trooper Academy — the academy for all Alaska State Troopers — is located in Sitka.

Sitka's many attractions include:

• Alaska Day
• Alaska Raptor Center
• Baranof Castle Hill
• Naa Kahídi Dancers who perform in the Sheet'ká Kwáan Naa Kahídi
• Russian Bishop's House
• Saint Lazaria National Wildlife Refuge
• St. Michael's Cathedral
• Saint Peter's-By-The-Sea Episcopal Church
• Sheldon Jackson Museum
• Sitka Fine Arts Camp
• Sitka Historical Museum
• Sitka Jazz Festival
• Sitka Lutheran Church
• Sitka National Historical Park
• Sitka Pioneer Home
• Sitka Summer Music Festival
• Swan Lake
• Tongass National Forest
• Whale Fest

The flora and fauna of Sitka and its surrounding area are also a notable attraction. Day cruises and guided day trips (hiking) are large enterprises in Sitka. Floatplane "flightseeing" excursions are a breathtaking way to view the area's many sights from high above.

Sitka's unique position of being straddled between the Pacific Ocean and the most mountainous island in the Alexander Archipelago creates an abundant variety of outdoor opportunities:

• The Baranof Cross-Island Trail, which leads to the small community of Baranof Warm Springs on the eastern side of the island, is a popular summer backpacking trip. Only serious and experienced backpackers, or those with an experienced guide, should undertake such a trip due to volatile weather conditions in the mountains and the required crossings of icefields with crevasses.
• The dormant volcano Mount Edgecumbe is also a popular mountain to summit and features a seven-mile (11 km) trail up to the top. Guided day-trips are available, but the trip does not require much knowledge to undertake.
• The officially unnamed, but informally named Peak 5390 (the name is derived from its height in feet) is the highest point on Baranof Island and a demanding climb. Few people undertake this peak; those interested should consult with one who has summited previously.
• Kayaking is a popular activity and small guided day excursions are offered locally. For longer trips, popular destinations include the Baranof Island-located outposts of Goddard hot springs, Baranof Warm Springs, Port Alexander, Port Armstrong, or Port Walter. White Sulphur Hot Springs (on the western side of Chichagof Island) is also a destination for ocean kayakers. For locations closer to Sitka, U.S. Forest Service cabins are popular.
• There are a number of maintained trails in the Sitka area, many of which are accessible from Sitka's road system. Popular trails include Indian River Trail, Beaver Lake Trail, Mosquito Cove Trail, Harbor Mountain/Gavin Hill Trail, Redoubt Lake Trail, Mount Verstovia Trail, and Shelikof Trail.

Sitka is served by the Daily Sitka Sentinel, one of the remaining few independently-owned daily newspapers in the state. Sitka also receives circulation of the Capital City Weekly — a weekly regional newspaper based out of Juneau.

The public radio station KCAW and commercial radio stations KIFW and KSBZ fill the airwaves. Low-power FM radio station KAQU-LP 88.1 is owned by the City and Borough of Sitka, and broadcasts whale sounds from a submerged microphone at Whale Park.

KTNL-TV (CBS) broadcasts out of Sitka on Channel 13 (Cable 6) serving Southeast Alaska. Additionally, KSCT-LP (NBC) Channel 5, KTOO (PBS) Channel 10 [3], and KJUD (cable-only ABC/CW) serve the region.

• Scott McAdams, 2010 Democratic U.S. Senate Candidate
• Richard Nelson, cultural anthropologist, writer, and activist
• John Straley, award-winning author

Sitka has the following sister city:^[23]

• Nemuro, Japan

• Louis L'Amour penned Sitka, his fictional account of the events surrounding the United States' purchase of the Alaska Territory from the Russians for $7.2 million in 1867.
• Novelist James Michener resided at Sitka's Sheldon Jackson College while doing research for his epic work, Alaska.
• The 1952 film The World in His Arms has Russian Sitka as one of its settings.
• Sitka is the opening setting in Ivan Doig's 1982 historical fiction The Sea Runners.
• Sitka is mentioned in Chapter 53 of James Clavell's 1993 historical fiction about Japan Gai-Jin.
• Mystery author John Straley described Sitka as "...an island town where people feel crowded by the land and spread out on the sea."
• Part of the action in the novel César Cascabel by Jules Verne takes place in Sitka in May–June, 1867 during the transfer of ownership to the United States.
• A fictionalized Sitka, with a population in the millions and host of a fictional 1977 World's Fair, is the setting of the alternate history detective story The Yiddish Policemen's Union, by Michael Chabon.
• Sitka is a character in the 2003 Disney animated feature Brother Bear.
• Sitka is a setting used in the 2009 Touchstone Pictures feature The Proposal, although the scenes were filmed in Rockport, Massachusetts.

• List of United States cities by area
• Maritime Fur Trade
• Russian Alaska
• Sitka Tribe of Alaska
• USS Sitka

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Sitka, Alaska.

• Sitka's City Government Page
• City and Borough of Sitka Official GIS Maps and Property Information
• Borough map: Alaska Department of Labor
• Sitka Historical Society & Museum
• Sitka Information and Resources
• Sitka Forum
• Sitka Economic Development Association
• Convention and Visitors Bureau
• Sitka Tribe of Alaska official website
• Historic images
• Sitka, Alaska at Curlie