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Berluti

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Berluti
Company typeSubsidiary of public company
IndustryFashion
Founded1895 (1895)
FounderAlessandro Berluti
Headquarters,
ProductsShoes, boots, leatherware
OwnerLVMH
Websitewww.berluti.com
Berluti original store on rue Marbeuf in the 8th arrondissement of Paris

Berluti is a French leather maker that manufactures menswear, especially the leather finishing of calfskin, kangaroo leather and alligator skin[1] in its production of shoes and boots. It makes leather belts, bags, and wallets, as well as bespoke and ready-to-wear garments. Established in 1895 by Italian Alessandro Berluti of Marche, Berluti is based in Paris on rue Marbeuf. The brand was bought by LVMH in 1993.[2]

In 2023, the brand returned to Paris Fashion Week despite operating without a creative director.[3] The role was most recently held by Kris Van Assche from 2018 to 2021.[4]

History

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Logo until 2018
Alessandro Sartori was Berluti's creative director for 5 years, overseeing its first clothing collections

Berluti was founded in 1895 by Italian Alessandro Berluti, and later run by Olga Squeri, also known as Olga Berluti.[5] The LVMH group acquired Berluti in 1993. In 2012, Berluti acquired Paris tailor house Arnys and launched its first prêt-à-porter menswear collections.[6]

In 2011, Olga Berluti was named creative director of the Berluti Art line.[7]

From 2011 to 2023, Berluti was headed by LVMH's CEO Bernard Arnault's son, Antoine Arnault, who also serves as the chairman of Loro Piana.[8] In March 2014, Isabella Capece Galeota became director of image and communications.[9][10]

Between 2011 and 2014, Berluti increased its annual revenue from less than 30 million euros ($32.6 million) to €100 million ($109 million), having expanded its product offering, bought a custom atelier and increased its global store network to 46 boutiques.[11]

In 2013, Berluti worked with Dutch artist Maarten Baas on created a series of sculptures.[12]

In 2017, Berluti introduced a sunglass collection in collaboration with Oliver Peoples.[13]

In 2018, creative director Kris Van Assche reconfigured the existing Berluti logo based on one he found carved into a shoe last and devised with M/M Paris.[14]

All the footwear manufacturing and leather goods are produced in the town of Gaibanella in the municipality of Ferrara,[15] while Paris is the location of the corporate headquarters.

Berluti designed uniforms for the French team at the opening ceremony of the 2024 Olympics and Paralympics in France.[16][17]

Creative directors

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Recognition

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In 2017 Business of Fashion named Berluti among the 16 best companies to work for in the fashion industry.[28]

References

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  1. ^ Berluti Stores
  2. ^ LVMH Using Berluti Brand as a Steppingstone in Menswear Wall Street Journal, Christina Passariello, January 29, 2014
  3. ^ Diderich, Joelle (18 January 2023). "Berluti Returns to Paris Fashion Week With a New Approach". WWD. Retrieved 8 August 2024.
  4. ^ The Challenge of Freedom: Kris Van Assche on Rebooting Berluti Luke Leitch, vogue.com 17 January 2019
  5. ^ "Olga Berluti" (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 10 November 2013. Retrieved 1 December 2013.
  6. ^ Masidlover, Nadya (15 June 2012). "LVMH Acquires Taste for Bespoke". Wall Street Journal. ISSN 0099-9660. Retrieved 23 April 2020.
  7. ^ Katya Foreman (26 September 2011), Olga Berluti Assumes Berluti Creative Role Women's Wear Daily.
  8. ^ businessoffashion.com Antoine Arnault
  9. ^ Socha, Miles (17 March 2014). "Louis Vuitton Taps Edouard Schneider to Head P.R." WWD. Retrieved 18 March 2014.
  10. ^ Miles Socha (21 November 2023), Antoine Arnault to Relinquish CEO Role at Berluti Women's Wear Daily.
  11. ^ Elizabeth Paton (2 February 2016), Changes at Brioni and Berluti Continue Designer Shuffle New York Times.
  12. ^ Rachel Felder (5 December 2013), Berluti Does Basel Women's Wear Daily.
  13. ^ Miles Socha (28 October 2016), Berluti, Oliver Peoples Team for Eyewear Women's Wear Daily.
  14. ^ Alexander Fury (18 January 2019), AW19 Paris mens: The Berluti re-boot Financial Times.
  15. ^ WW, FashionNetwork com. "Berluti picks up speed with a large production site in Italy". FashionNetwork.com. Retrieved 23 April 2020.
  16. ^ Mimosa Spencer (16 November 2023), LVMH's Berluti to design Olympics opening ceremony uniforms for French teams Reuters.
  17. ^ Dazed (25 July 2024). "The hardest Olympic uniforms of all time". Dazed. Retrieved 8 August 2024.
  18. ^ berluti.com Alessandro Sartori Retrieved 5 November 2015
  19. ^ Kate Abnett, Berluti Names Haider Ackermann Creative Director businessoffashion.com 1 September 2016
  20. ^ LUKE LEITCH Why Haider Ackermann’s New Berluti Gig Is Menswear’s Most Tantalizing Appointment Archived 3 September 2016 at the Wayback Machine vogue.com 1 September 2016
  21. ^ Vanessa Friedman, Haider Ackermann Named Creative Director of Berluti The New York Times 2016/09/01
  22. ^ Megan Gustashaw, Berluti Names Haider Ackermann as Creative Director GQ.com
  23. ^ Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017
  24. ^ Fall/Winter 2017 Archived 9 May 2017 at the Wayback Machine berluti.com
  25. ^ Schneier, Matthew (30 March 2018). "Haider Ackermann Exits Berluti". The New York Times. Retrieved 4 April 2018.
  26. ^ Yotka, Steff (3 April 2018). "Kris Van Assche Named Artistic Director at Berluti". Vogue. Retrieved 4 April 2018.
  27. ^ "Login • Instagram". Archived from the original on 24 December 2021. {{cite web}}: Cite uses generic title (help)
  28. ^ Taylor Branson, THE FASHION COMPANIES YOU SHOULD BE WORKING FOR RIGHT NOW: Business of Fashion released their first-ever report on the best companies to work for in fashion. harpersbazaar.com 24 April 2017
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