This article possibly contains original research. (July 2016) |
Chang-ao (simplified Chinese: 长袄; traditional Chinese: 長襖), lit. translated as "long jacket" or "long ao",[1][2] is a historical long-length, Chinese upper garment called ao (袄), which was worn by women. It is also known as da ao (大袄)[2] and chang ru (长襦; long ru jacket) which appears to be the precursor of the ao.[3]
Chang'ao | |||||||
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![]() Woman wearing a chang'ao. | |||||||
Traditional Chinese | 長襖 | ||||||
Simplified Chinese | 长袄 | ||||||
Literal meaning | Long jacket | ||||||
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When paired with a skirt, the chang-ao forms a style of aoqun (i.e. jacket worn over a skirt).[4] This set of attire is worn as a formal attire.
History
editIn the Ming dynasty, the wearing of long-length upper jacket (ao) with skirts became more prevalent than the wearing of short upper jacket with skirts.[3] Several paintings, book illustrations, tomb artefacts, and references from books which dates from the late Ming dynasty show that women were wearing long-length ao with a skirt during this period.[3]
The combination of long-length ao with skirt continued to exist in the Qing dynasty.[3] However the style of Ming dynasty ao continued to evolve under the influence of the Manchu fashion.[5] By the late Qing dynasty, it was typical for the ao to be waist-length.[5] The late Qing ao also had different types of opening (i.e. central front opening, slant opening), could have either narrow or wide sleeves and could have a mandarin collar.[5]
After the fall of the Qing dynasty, the ao continued to be worn in the Republic of China; the 1910s ao style was once again lengthen up to hip level, and sometimes up to the knees.[5] It was once again shortened in the 1920s to be waist-length.[5]
Construction and design
editThe chang-ao was actually developed from zhiduo during the Ming Dynasty, and is worn over a skirt. It is wide-sleeved, shorter than zhiduo and has no side panels (暗擺) at the side slits (thus showing the skirt worn underneath). There is often an optional detachable protective huling (���領, lit. "protect collar") sewn to the collar. The huling can be of white or any other dark colours. The collar is of the same colour as the clothing.
Gallery
edit-
Portrait of noblewomen wearing Chang-ao with mandarin square
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Portrait of noblewomen wearing round-collared Chang-ao with mandarin square
Related clothing
editSee also
edit- Hanfu
- List of Hanfu
- Ru - Chinese upper garment
References
edit- ^ "5 Steps to Figure Out the Chinese Female Outfits (Ming) - 2021". www.newhanfu.com. Retrieved 2021-06-10.
- ^ a b "Hanfu Making(2) - Aoqun Cutting & Sewing Patterns - 2021". www.newhanfu.com. Retrieved 2021-06-10.
- ^ a b c d Finnane, Antonia (2008). Changing clothes in China : fashion, history, nation. New York: Columbia University Press. pp. 48–52. ISBN 978-0-231-14350-9. OCLC 84903948.
- ^ Wang, Xinyi; Colbert, François; Legoux, Renaud (2020). "From Niche Interest to Fashion Trend: Hanfu Clothing as a Rising Industry in China". International Journal of Arts Management. 23 (1). Retrieved 1 February 2021.
- ^ a b c d e Jiang, Wanyi; Li, Zhaoqing (2021-01-06). Analysis on Evolution, Design and Application of Women's Traditional Coats in Beijing in the Late Qing Dynasty and the Early Republic of China. Atlantis Press. pp. 641–648. doi:10.2991/assehr.k.210106.123. ISBN 978-94-6239-314-1.